South Africa is way bigger than most visitors imagine. And if you want to discover the real 'heartland' of the country, head for the small towns and villages that lie just off the beaten the track - and find some of the jewels ...

Often these small towns and hamlets are a haven for artists and creative people who need peace and quiet to flourish, they give travellers the opportunity to meet colourful local characters who still have the time to talk and settings that can take your breath away.

Some suggestions to get you started:

WESTERN CAPE

Franschhoek is nestled in a lovely valley in the heart of the Cape Winelands, and is a little bit of France in Africa. It was originally settled by French Huguenots who fled religious persecution in the 1700s. It's now one of the gourmet capitals of the country (perhaps second only to Cape Town) - famed for its excellent restaurants, 5-star guest-houses and superb wineries. Go on - indulge. And spoil yourself with home-made cheeses, preserves, chocolates, baked goods and breads that are yours for the asking. There is also a wealth of art galleries & of course, the Huguenot monument for cultural buffs.

Simonstown , not far from Cape Town is founded on naval tradition. From the earliest times, this town acted as the principal South Atlantic Base for the Royal Navy before it became the home of the South-African navy. Visitors can explore the fascinating Naval Museum, walk the streets to soak up the atmosphere and relax in one of the many ocean-side restaurants and bars all steeped in naval lore. Another favourite attraction is the "Just Nuisance" monument - of a Great Dane dog that became a naval mascot many years ago. Whales and great white sharks patrol these waters and sightings are common. It's also en-route to Boulders Penguin colony.


Darling This little town lies between the West Coast and the Swartland in the Western Cape. It's one of South Africa's foremost artist colonies, made famous by political satirist & comedian, Pieter Dirk-Uys & his alter-ego, Tannie Evita Bezuidenhout, who often puts on shows in "Evita se Perron" (station platform). It's an easy drive from Cape Town and it comes alive with a carpet of wild flowers come springtime.

There are quaint restaurants and coffee shops, a theatre, a number of B&Bs and a myriad shops have since sprung up in this pretty village.



Paternosterlies on the West Coast, north of Cape Town. It's like a picture-book fishing village, complete with colourful fishing boats, fishermen's houses, holiday homes and huge boulders overlooking the bay. Everyone meets at the local hotel to swap stories. Enjoy perfect sunsets with a traditional beach braai (BBBQ) of lobster and fresh ocean fare. Unbeatable.

Oudtshoorn is the home of the local ostrich industry and the annual Klein-Karoo National Arts Festival (KKNK). Oudtshoorn lies in an arid region in the shadow of the Western Cape's spectacular Swartberg Mountains.

The mansions built by the ostrich feather barons of yesteryear are a must-see, as are the spectacular Cango caves - which also offer an adventurous option. Enjoy ostrich dishes (scrambled eggs anyone?) in local restaurants, and shop for ostrich egg, leather & feather goodies. Feeling really adventurous? Ride an ostrich or dive with crocodiles!

Matjiesfontein is living testament to Victorian splendour. This railway siding became a small town thanks to one man - James Logan. An official with the Cape Government Railways, he suffered from a chest complaint. A transfer to the Karoo proved so beneficial that he decided to stay, bought a farm & then started taking care of the passengers of the passing trains, who were often thirsty & hungry. The initial restaurant gave way to the majestic Lord Milner hotel he built in the elegant Victorian style. It is as fashionable today as it was way back then. Take a step back in time & visit "Matjies" en-route to or from Cape Town. Great breakfasts, lunches & cream teas.



EASTERN CAPE


Nieu Bethesda - a Hollywood movie has been made in this tiny Karoo hamlet to celebrate its most famous inhabitant - Helen Martins. She was an artist and recluse, and together with her local worker, she created fantasy creatures out of glass and cement and scandalised the town with her eccentric ways.

Her home, "the Owl House", is a museum where huge camel sculptures, wise men and owls stand forever looking eastwards in a testament to her vision and passion. It has become a place of pilgrimage for artists and travellers alike.

The Ibis Gallery on the main road of Nieu Bethesda boasts contemporary South African art, while the local watering hole is home to some of the area's more colourful inhabitants.



Port St Johns is a swashbuckling village of legend on the Pondo side of the Wild Coast of the Eastern Cape. It is also one of the highlights on any international backpacker's world itinerary because of its natural setting, frontier atmosphere and appeal to the more adventurous younger travellers looking for adventure on the wild side of Africa.

From one of the most interesting airstrips in Africa, one can see the famed Gates of St Johns (Mounts Thesiger and Sullivan) on either side of the river. Three good beaches, excellent fishing and a general atmosphere of 'live and let live' pervade the village. In recent years, it's definitely become a little seedier & would be the likely hangout of anyone dodging taxes, in-laws and authority in general.

MPUMALANGA

Dullstroom is the trout-fishing capital of South Africa. It's a 2-hour drive from Johannesburg so it offers city dwellers the perfect weekend escape. Founded by Dutch settler Wolterus Dull 120 years ago, the town has beautiful scenery, great bird life, delightful décor and antique shops and lots of local colour.

It's become seriously touristy lately & prices can be hectic - but the food is generally great. There are heaps of lively pubs & bars, pancake bars, sweet shops & tea gardens. The original Dullstroom Inn boasts that its fire has not gone out in all its years of existence.

Pilgrims Rest - the entire town has been declared a national monument. Established in the 1880s during a gold-rush, the town has changed little & gives visitors a good idea of what life was like back then.

The graveyard is worth seeig for its historic 'inhabitants', such as the robber's grave. The buildings take one back to another era - such as the famed Royal Hotel. Pilgrims is in the heart of some of the most spectacular scenery in the country eg Berlin & MacMac Falls, God's Window, Bourke's Luck Potholes, Blyde River Canyon, Three Rondavels

Kaapschehoop is a haven for the last wild horses of South Africa that freely roam its streets. Take a walk through a labyrinth of rocks on the escarpment overlooking Swaziland. Many artists live here permanently, and there are a number of beautiful guesthouses in town, plus a range of accommodation to suit all pockets.

FREE STATE

Clarens is home to potters, actors, artists and a number of community-based art projects ... and has a magically relaxed but vibrant atmosphere. The road between Clarens and Fouriesburg is one truly scenic and just beyond the town lies the Golden Gate National Park, which has incredible orange stone mountains, crystal-clear streams and wildlife. Clarens also boasts farm-stay accommodation, giving visitors authentic Free State hospitality.

"The Free State Landscape gladdens my heart, no matter what my mood," Nelson Mandela said once. "When I am here I feel that nothing can shut me in and that my thoughts can roam as far as the horizons."

NORTH WEST

Groot Marico in North West of South Africa is famous for 2 reasons: its mampoer - a distilled and potent alcohol made from peaches (with names like "doring-draad mampoer" or 'barbed wire' - and its most famous citizen, author Herman Charles Bosman, who based many of his works in the district. The town hosts the annual Herman Charles Bosman literary weekend every October, with visitors from all over the country visiting Marico to celebrate some of South Africa's best loved tales.

Then of course, there's Haenertsberg, Graff-Reinett, Witsand, Swellendam, and, and, and ...